REVIEWS FROM TRIP ADVISOR

Dinner at the Savoy Cabbage was one of the highlights of our stay in Cape Town. The food was excellent, the wine superb and the service impecable. Wanting to taste of the local specialties, but not being familiar with South African wines and faire, we consulted our waiter and found him to be extremely knowledgable and his recommendations excellent.

Truly, our waiter was the most knowledgable and professional in memory, and yet completely approachable and helpful. Our entrees, based on farm raised game, kudu and warthog, were prepared with great sophistication and were excellent. We were so impressed with and enjoyed the recommended wine so much we tracked down the winery in Stellenbosch and got them to retreive a couple of bottles from the cellar to take home as a reminder of our experience at Savoy Cabbage. In summary, a great dining experience.

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Saldanha Works

On behalf of the Saldanha Management team I would like to thank you for a very enjoyable evening at your restaurant, the Savoy Cabbage.
The combination of good food, a fine ambience and excellent service contributed towards a most enjoyable experience.

Kind regards

R Holcroft

General Manager
Saldanha Works

 
Brian Berkman - Good, better, best
July 30, 2010
By  Brian Berkman

Acholent is a hot dish usu­ally cooked slowly for more than 15 hours. For those observing the Jewish reli­gious laws of Sabbath, no cooking is permitted from before sunset on Friday until a little while after sunset on Saturday.

The same rule applies to many Jewish festivals too. The problem, especially for those Jews who lived in Eastern Europe, which would freeze in winter, is no hot food on Saturday. In those days, the cholent pot would be carried to the village bakery on the Friday afternoon and left in the cooling bread ovens until lunch the next day. A pot of cholent should feed a large hungry family. It still does. Every Jewish New Year, my aunt Babs Kantor makes a pot so large it takes two to carry it. It is crowned by a kugel or dumpling topping and inside is a thick stew of beans and beef brisket. I love to dig to the bottom of the pot where the bones have offered up their marrow to meld with the fat from the meat (some people even add goose fat to the already rich dish). It is sublime to eat.

Unhappy to enjoy such a dish but once a year, I waddled off to Savoy Cabbage for their version of cholent, the famous French Languedoc bean stew, cassoulet.

Savoy Cabbage Chef Peter Pan­khurst and his team first make the confit duck (duck legs cooked very slowly in duck fat), the two types of sausage (the French will demand saucisses de Toulouse but you should know they make their own sausages and salami at The Savoy Cabbage) and the lamb stew. If you’re interest­ed in the history of food, investigate the story of the first cassoulet being made as a communal meal during the siege of Castelnaudary in 1355.

I was fascinated to learn that an earlier version of the dish made with mutton and fava beans by the Ar­abs could have led to the dish we know today. A Spanish influence is also cited so I suppose it is possible, obviously without the pork sausage, so essential to its current incarna­tion that Kosher Cholent could have evolved from the same dish.

I forget what a fine restaurant The Savoy Cabbage is. Chef Peter, Caroline and Frank have been serv­ing consistently superb food since they opened more than 12 years ago. Their cassoulet, at R155 a portion, could easily feed two hungry people yet I managed to eat it all myself. Each time I put my fork down; I’d be called by a glistening bean or the crispy bits of the bread-crumb top­ping clinging to the side, too untidy to return to the kitchen without cleaning up. It is as if this flaming hot stew of beans, confit duck, sau­sages and mutton has invoked 650 years of deliciousness since it was first served.

Although the cassoulet is on their winter warmers menu, my com­panion ordered the Black Bean and Chipotle Chilli Soup with Corn Chips (R65) which he said impressed him and the Fennel and Orange-dusted Veal Sweetbreads with Mushrooms and Lemon, and a Chive Sauce (R135), which I tasted and enjoyed though I prefer my sweetbreads a little less cooked. I love the sound of Fennel-dusted Warthog Loin with Bashed Neeps ’n Tatties, Red On­ion Marmalade and Sour Fig Syrup (R165) and will return for it or the Risotto Nero with Line Fish, Calamari and Grilled Prawns (R145) now that my craving for cassoulet has been satisfied for a while.

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Restaurant Reviews

 
Tony Jackman - tonight.co.za
Enduring quality in a time of trends

January 14, 2010
By Tony Jackman

The longer you cover the restaurant business in the Cape, the more jaundiced you become as you see yet another supposedly brilliant flavour-of-the-month restaurant bite the dust while others somehow manage to survive without the glare of the media on them and the foodie glossy posse preening and purring over their every morsel.

Funny, that. Peruse the annual awards lists of the last 10 years and you'll find many examples of restaurants that were once just the place to get to, dahlings, their chefs' names thrown about as if the Gods had come down to save our palates.

Then they slip down the lists until, in a year or two, they drop out of the top 10 and are often never heard of again.

In some cases, their fame will be replaced by good old-fashioned hard work and solid business and marketing practices, and they'll continue with respectable careers and happy patrons. In others, the promise will evaporate like a saucepan of jus left on the heat too long, and months later you'll wonder, "Whatever happened to... ?"

There was a time when Savoy Cabbage, a lovely restaurant almost hidden in an inner city side street, was one of the dahlings of the gushy glossy set. It's delightful to see that years later, the place is absolutely on form.

No longer in the awards lists - and nor does it need to be - this is a business that has always been run as just that: a damn fine restaurant where all the boxes are ticked, and ticked every night. That means the management pays attention to all the details that need to be thought of, from maintaining the décor to keeping an eye on every table no matter how good your paid staff are.

Most of all, it means that what the menu promises is delivered to the plate and to your palate. And when you're paying prices like these - where starter prices are what main course prices were not too long ago (Savoy Cabbage does not, shall we say, have a reticent pricing policy) - you have every right to expect a meal that would have a glossy missy clutching for superlatives, with service to match.

That's the price a restaurant pays for having the courage to set the price bar high - if the nosh was not up to scratch, well-shod feet would walk out and pad to a better option down the road.

Chef Peter Pankhurst has spent most of a decade at the coalface of this spacious double-decker venue where peeled redbrick walls are offset by glass and concrete with cute savoy cabbage touches in elemental designs. (Have I been reading too many foodie mags, or what?)


But when all is said and sighed about, it's what's on the plate that really counts, no matter how high or low the price or how often or not the chef is mentioned in the pages of Posh Galore. Pankhurst's menu is a considered affair, brilliantly executed, in a way that suggests he really ought still to be on those awards lists.

I adored my starter of white grape and almond gazpacho with tomato gazpacho sorbet, from the texture to the icy thrill on the palate to sweetish, hottish flavours that washed over one another in a maddeningly moreish way - the only reservation being that the sorbet was too recent from the freezer, and consequently too solid.

Di swooned over her terrine of Norwegian salmon with asparagus and dill salad.

It had been hard to choose, with starter alternatives including chicken liver parfait with port-smoked figs, West Coast oyster custard with fried oysters, braised leeks and a beetroot and ginger emulsion (okay, they almost lost me there; I am no fan of most of these froths, foams and emulsions, though I have encountered very occasional delights) and a range of house-cured charcuterie which I'll try on a future visit.

Serious gourmands may want to try the main course of veal sweetbreads with mushrooms, lemon and chives, and I was sorely tempted, but I was in a really meaty mood so chose the "lamb three ways", being roasted rack, braised shoulder and merguez sausage, served with a conical garlic flan (like a very delicate savoury pannacotta) and gratinated dauphinoise potatoes.

It was good, though I would have liked the rack a teensy bit less rare, and I loved the red wine sauce so much that I asked for more. The rare chalmar beef fillet with boozy onions (nice), mushrooms and red wine sauce was no less of a great marriage.

The dessert menu is one of those where you're scared to choose one in case the others are even better - fresh figs roasted with honey, chocolate marquise with coffee sauce, butterscotch pannacotta with berry compote - and also includes tempting cheesy options such as gorgonzola with almonds and port-soaked figs.

Great venue, lovely food, wonderful vibe, and all without being pandered to by the foodie floozies. What fun.

 
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